When my plane landed in Addis Ababa, I couldn’t visualize what lay beyond the doors of the airport. My only prior contact with the African continent had been a day trip to Morocco over a decade ago. Movies, news reports and Wikipedia can only provide so much context. You need to have your feet on firm sub-Saharan African soil to begin to understand its history, peoples and evolving place in the world. After more than a dozen weeks here, I am firmly committed to see and experience as much of sub-Saharan Africa as possible. Here are some reasons why you should be, too.
The People of the African Countryside
African cities can be tough. They are developing quickly and pose the nuisances and dangers of theft and, in some cases, violence. But the countryside is altogether different. Life is more relaxed and simpler and it shows in the generous and kind nature of people I have interacted with outside of the cities. One of the most rewarding acts you can perform is taking a picture of children in a rural area and then showing them the picture on the camera’s screen. Many of these kids have never seen a photo of themselves and the smiles and laughter elicited by a peek at the frame are unmatchable.
The Wildlife
An hour into your first game drive in Kenya, Tanzania or South Africa, even the finest zoos and parks in North America and Europe will be ruined for you. Many governments in sub-Saharan Africa have taken important steps to protect their special habitats and the animals that have resided there since humans became bipedal (kudos to Botswana, which recently outlawed non-subsistence game hunting). Watching a pride of lions stalk a herd of buffalo or a giraffe lazily munching on prickly leaves is unique and exhilarating. As developing countries urbanize and improve their touristic facilities, the reserves will be more crowded in coming years. Go now so you can sit 20 feet away from some zebras in a Land Cruiser, with no other humans in sight.
Everything is Changing, Fast
You can be sure that large parts of many African countries – especially the more populous cities – will look radically different in ten years. From my front yard in Addis I can see several massive, multi-story construction projects. These buildings are shooting up all over the city, as crews work 12-hour days throughout the week. The rapidly changing skyline means a growing urban population, more cash to the local laborers and infusion of that money into sectors of the local economy. The pockets of “shanty towns” found in neighborhoods of barbed wire-topped walls will likely fade and their residents moved to city outskirts. The dirt roads, the coexistence of individuals from vastly disparate socioeconomic groups and the house-front bodegas should be enjoyed now.
A Broadened Worldview is a Good Thing
When you travel to a city like Paris or Berlin from the U.S., Canada or Western Europe, it is natural to compare your hometown with the destination. There are pluses (baguettes, runny cheese, currywurst) and minuses (…none really coming to mind), but the process is one of comparison and preference. After spending time in the developing world, this process changes. Highest value is placed on the basics of electricity and clean water. You make do with a tiny fraction of what you need to “survive” in the West. Doing so helps refocus even the most cynical, as you realize the difficulties that many millions of individuals face day-to-day without complaint. It may take a little time, but on an extended stay in Africa, you will recognize that the bounty of options in the large Western cities is not indispensable.
So I urge you to book your next ticket to Maputo or Dar es Salaam instead of to London or Rome. The latter examples will always be there, reinventing themselves when necessary to keep the tourist dollars flowing. Before long, the former examples will be irrevocably changed, eroding what makes them distinct and endearing.
I’m dying to see Africa and you just made the itch a little more intense. Definitely making this trip happen soon!
Hi Britany,
Thank you for your comment and I’m glad you enjoyed the post! If you end up heading over here, please don’t hesitate to contact me with any questions, as I’m always happy to share tips. Look forward to checking out your site.
Hi Dave.
Great post! Thanks for sharing the #Afritravel love.
Thank you, Meruschka – glad you enjoyed it! South Africa is very high on my list and I hope to make it down later in 2014.
People, wildlife and a new perspective – you really *get* what makes Africa so special – thank you for having an open mind, for surrendering to a different way of being.
Thank you, Roxanne – I’m glad you enjoyed the post! It has been an amazing experience so far and I’m excited for whatever is around the corner. I look forward to checking out your blog, too.
We are so proud of you two and your adventurous souls! And, tempted to visit…..most of our shots are still good. Soak up the best of Africa and tell us all the stories.
Thank you, Linda and David! Come over to visit us in Ethiopia any time – this country is so rich in natural beauty and history.
Hi Dave – great post, and I couldn’t agree more. Africa takes everything we know and quickly turns it sideways – for the best. I’ve been a few times and fallen in love with it more with each visit. My first trip was to see the critters, but it’s the people that keep me coming back. I’m heading to Ethiopia in May, I look forward to reading more of your stories! I may even pepper you from questions from time to time if that’s ok?
Cheers,
Michelle
Thanks, Michelle – it’s great to hear that you are coming to Ethiopia in May! Please do not hesitate to email me with any questions beforehand, as I am always happy to help out a fellow traveler.
Dave – Love love loved Ethiopia. Made it to the scary cliff church in Tigray, the monasteries on Lake Tana, and danced the night away in Lalibela. It was a blend of what I loved about other African countries I’ve visited (beautiful landscapes, stunning people, eons of history, dazzling music, and great homemade booze) and crammed them all into one place. Thanks again for your info, it helped! You can read my bits on my blog if you’d like: http://wanderingoff.ca/?s=ethiopia
Cheers,
Michelle
Hi Dave! So great that you found me on Facebook, it’s really great to hear from you. I’m incredibly jealous of your long trip to Africa. My husband and I spent a few months in Tanzania and Ghana the summer after I quit my job and before I started grad school. We did a few touristy things (Kili, safari, Zanzibar) and also volunteered with a local NGO. If you have any interest in getting to Tanzania and spending time at an orphanage for HIV+ kids who are so incredible, let me know. I volunteered as a community health worker, but ended up spending a lot of time with these kids and I’m still involved with the organization today. Also, go to Zanzibar if you can. I’m sure you’ve figured out that you don’t have to stay at the luxury places. It’s just beautiful and the people are amazing and the busses are even more “exciting” than on the mainland because they are “open air.” Oh, I want to go back. Sorry for the long comment. Hope to keep in touch!
Hi Nicole, so nice to hear from you! We have not made it down to Tanzania yet, but are dying to spend time there. What is the name of the organization? It sounds like you had a really meaningful experience. There is a pretty big expat community here in Addis and I’d be happy to spread the word. I am definitely ready for the open air bus, provided that it’s still the dry season! I will be in touch once we have some Tanzania plans, as I’m sure you’ll have some great recs. Hope everything else is going well and I’m looking forward to keeping in touch.
I’ve been getting more and more tempted to visit Ethiopia and Sudan recently.
Even though we may travel ourselves and are fully aware that more often that not that the media perpetuates certain kinds of stereotypes for certain places, it’s difficult to actually know the truth. That’s when bloggers like you come in and inform the rest of us that “It’s okay” and “We’ll be fine”. We trust your firsthand experiences and we get the little nudge of encouragement we need. Thanks for that Dave 🙂
Thank you so much for your nice comment, Ankita – I really appreciate it. I’m very happy that you are tempted to visit this part of the world. It takes courage to make the jump and it sounds like you have mustered it. Hope to see you over here soon 🙂
I have seen the African continent 8 times from the deck of an aircraft carrier but I have yet to set foot there. I really want to see the great migration.
The great migration is really high on my list, too. Kenya is someplace I can go back to again and again because of its incredible beauty.
Great article. The photo with the construction reminds me about India. They use bamboo too as a scaffolding.
I´d really like to see the Big 5´s some day in Africa. Great you had the chance to already see the wildlife in Africa.
Thanks, Christina! Seeing animals in their natural surroundings is such a wonderful experience. Hope you have it soon 🙂
It’s one part of the world I haven’t been to at all. Looks as if I need to see it soon, before everything changes.
You won’t regret it, Karen. There an impressive variety of nature and culture to see.
Your writing is very good and your pictures are wonderful. We are talking about taking the family on a safari…I’m a little nervous though for many reasons. Impressed with your blog!
Thanks, Jen! I see a lot of safari cars with young children inside. It’s an unmatched experience for them and my friends’ kids end up obsessing over safaris afterwards.
Sub-Saharan Africa is definitely on our list! But we can’t decide which country we want to go to! When I tell people I want to go to Kenya or Mozambique or Ethiopia (or about a dozen more) they always look at me like I’m crazy… I think there is a preconceived notion of Africa not being a place American tourists go to (with the exception of South Africa), but this post really reconfirms what I dream of Africa being like.
There are so much great options for Africa and the three you suggest will all lead to some wonderful times. Thanks for stopping by, Krista.
Say no more, you had me at the beginning! I’ve always been a bit intimidated by Africa but it’s so refreshing to see your posts and your travels. It definitely looks like somewhere I would want to experience, at least once in my life.
You’ll really enjoy it, Samantha. Nothing like a morning game drive – waking up and seeing some cheetahs stalking an antelope is incredible.
I would love to see all the African countries atleast once in a lifetime! There’s so much cultural difference, and rare and beautiful things we encounter! The landscape is so rugged, yet compelling for photographers.
It’s such a draw for anyone who loves to document, whether with photography or video. Thanks for stopping by, Anu!
I’m sold. It’s not even a place I’d considered before – not until now. I really love your portrait photos too, of both the people and animals.
Thanks Charlie, it’s a lot of fun interacting with the people and watching the animals through a zoom lens.
Thanks for sharing this Dave. I am loving your Ethiopia posts and this ties everything together nicely. I am dying to see Africa and I would live to travel around independently, experiencing the continent before it changes forever. I lived what you said about children in the countryside. It really is special when you experience these kinds of connections.
I hope you can make it soon, Margherita – you’ve certainly got the right attitude to tackle Africa.
Very interesting article! On Africa Day (May 25) I’ll publish an interview I did with Francis Tapon, the man behind Hidden Europe, about his upcoming Unseen Africa project. His points are similar to yours: Sub-Saharan Africa is so diverse and surprising 😀
Thanks, Raphael and I’m looking forward to reading the interview on your site in a few weeks.
For me, the countryside of each country in the world is much better than cities. You will find there much nicer people who would like to help you, invite you to their houses. They are usually not rich but they have rich hearts. That’s why I love spending time in the countryside!
I couldn’t agree more. As much fun as cities can be, the countryside is where you find the best slice of life and the nicest people.
Hi Dave, I really enjoy reading your posts! I loved hearing how you shared a bit of joy with the locals using your camera. I remember my husband taking baseballs to children in Baja Mexico after seeing them playing with rolled up balls of foil. They were thrilled! I hope to get to Africa some day!
Those small acts of kindness can make a big difference in the lives of others and are also one of the best ways to act as an unofficial goodwill ambassador. Hope you guys make it over!
Awesome pics! I’ve only been to North Africa (Morocco) and I really want to see more of the continent!
I’d love to see more of Morocco when possible. I spent some time with some really friendly Moroccans recently and they had some great recommendations. Bumped it higher on the list!
I’m also enjoying your posts from Ethiopia. I’ve long been attracted to the the continent, in recent years more to the central western parts – Sierra Leone, Cote D’Ivoire, Senegal. (I think it’s the music. 🙂 )
Thanks, Bob. I just got back from Cote D’Ivoire, what a wonderful place! I’ll definitely have to get back to west Africa soon and would like to see Senegal.
Now THAT is something you don’t see too often. I really would love to try it out, but I hear it’s far more expensive traveling through Africa than other continents–any truth to that?
Hi Rashad – Traveling expenses really depend on the country and your comfort level with crowded, hot buses. Going overland is time-intensive, but very cheap. On the other hand, inter-country flights can be pricey. Given your extensive travel, I’m sure you could manage on a budget. Thanks for stopping by!
Ethiopia looks amazing, and it’s true, Africa is changing at a startling rate and should be visited now… I got married in South Africa years ago, we spent the three weeks before hand travelling around and the two weeks after relaxing, and I always wanted to go back and visit more. Namibia and Botswana are also high up on my list!
Oooh, Namibia is a photographer’s dream. And Botswana recently passed very strict anti-poaching legislation, so the country should be rewarded with tourist dollars for their progressive action.
Love the pictures of the wild life. Its getting me excited for a safari trip back home in Zambia this year. Really looking forward to reading more about your trips around Ethiopia.
Hi Bianca – Can’t wait to see your photos and read your accounts of the safari in Zambia! I’m sure it will be a memorable trip.
Great post, Dave! After following your adventures in Ethiopia, this post sums it all up. I’ve only been to SAR so far, but certainly hope to visit more.
Thanks, Frank. Hope to see you in the neighborhood (continentally speaking) soon!
Excellent post! The closest I have come to that area is its neighboring country – Somalia. I was stationed in Mogadishu in 1993 with the U.S. Army. While there I met people from Ethiopia, but never even got to visit there homeland.
It’s amazing to see that picture of the building under construction. Never would I have envisioned Ethiopia as a place of urban sprawl. I actually pictured dirt roads, little huts, poverty-stricken residents, herds of cattle and not much more (as this is what I saw next door in Somalia). So, your account paints a much better picture of current conditions there. Amazing what can happen over two decades!
Hi Jay – Thank you for stopping by and for your comment. I can’t even imagine the change that has occurred over the past 20 years and it’s insightful to hear your reflections on your time in neighboring Somalia. Addis is one big construction site right now and I’m intrigued to see how it looks in five years.
Great article and though provoking conclusions. It’s true that the cities you see today will not be the same as they are rapidly changing. I know that Alex is dying to go back to Ghana just for this reason.
Thanks, guys! I was just in neighboring Cote d’Ivoire and really enjoyed it. I’ve heard Ghana presents an attractive culture – excellent food, hospitable people and a vibrant music scene. Hope you get there soon 🙂
You raise really good, convincing points – not that I needed any convincing. I really want to visit Africa, in general, and sub-Saharan Africa in particular. It’s my #1 travel priority, but getting there is so costly. :-/
Thanks so much for your nice comment, Dana 🙂 I know it can be expensive, so I booked my initial flight on points. Once you arrive, you can definitely travel on a budget. Glad to see Africa is #1 on your list!
This is a really good post Dave! And I love the photographs. Africa has always fascinated me for some reason.. Partly because it’s my #1 dream to see safari animals in the wild, but also because like you describe, life is simple. I hope I get to go one day!
Thanks, Anna! I’m enjoying your South America posts on your site – really miss that place, so glad to view it through your lens. Hope you can enjoy a safari soon, as there’s nothing like it.
I have always been fascinated with Africa. An exboyfriend of mine went to Tanzania and Kenya when we were dating and I was so incredible jealous. I would love to one day make it to Africa and see all these things for myself. While I haven’t spent significant amount of time in a developing country (2 weeks being the most), I do agree with your sentiment at the end. There are so many things we just don’t need and take for granted.
Hi Adelina, it’s a long flight but worth it when you arrive. I have not made it to Tanzania yet, but hope to get down there during the dry season to experience the Serengeti. Thanks for stopping by again 🙂
So many awesome reasons to visit Africa. The one about showing the digital photo of the children to themselves is so precious! I wouldn’t have even thought about that. Those moments would be priceless! Also – the wildlife. That would be my main reason for wanting to visit!